The Brunheiro Mountains

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In Chaves it is not easy to ignore Brunheiro Mountain which rises to the east of the fertile valley, helping to shelter the town from the bitter winds that sometimes blow in January and February.  This extension of the Padrela mountains shelters many interesting villages and is an unlimited treasure of paths and back roads for hiking, cycling or just driving to get out of the concrete jungle that our urban areas have become.

These mountains are crossed by several dirt roads, including one that climbs up from Vilar de Nantes to a chapel and a cross and another that follows the middle of the elevation for several kilometers as far as the village of Cela near S. Lourenço.  Both roads can be negotiated by car but four-wheel drive would be necessary in the winter.  The cross, which can be reached directly from Vilar de Nantes on a bad dirt road which is not possible to travel on after heavy rains unless you have four wheel drive--is lit up at night and can be seen for miles.  The adjoining chapel, without historic or artistic interest,  is devoted to Our Lord of Good Hope whose festival is in August.  For the walker, a path leaves the chapel and starts a strenuous climb up to the top.  Along the way there is a spring for drinking water, which in the summer will be needed.   At the highest point, at 919 meters, we come out can be seen radio and television antennas, a platform for observing forest fires and a ramp for hang-gliding.  This point can also be reached by a paved road crossing the plateau that links Peto de Lagarelhos with Cela.

The vegetation consists of pines, chestnuts, oak and alders, although  most of the  forest has been devastated by fires.  Of the bushes we can mention broom weed, the strawberry tree or arbutus, gorse, heath and blackthorn (abrunheiro in Portuguese) There are some who believe that the mountains take their name from this bush, while others say that the name comes from a settlement called Brunheiro.  Until recently the brush here was cut for bedding for animals and to fertilize the fields, as well as for fuel for the ovens that were used to bake pottery in Vilar de Nantes. 

The Brunheiro provided the main resource-switches-for all the baskets that were sold in the area.  The basket makers who went up and down the mountain constantly, day and night to get their raw material, knew it like the palm of their hand; they knew all its secrets and they had great respect for it.  The mountains were, and are, a friend that furnished a large part of what was necessary for living in this impoverished region:  firewood for the stove, brush for the fields, fuel for the ovens, stone for construction, water for the fountains, food for the cattle, wood to sell, and material for the baskets.  

Despite overuse by man, the Brunheiro has always been rich in wildlife.  Even today, despite massive hunting,  there are wild pigs, foxes, rabbits, hares, partridges, and hawks.   A recommendation for walkers:  be careful in the hunting season as you might get shot in the back.

The Carmona family "solar" in Isei with the Brunheiro Mountains in the background

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