From Salazar to the Present

Geography

Population

Economy

Rural and Urban Society

Religion

Tourist Sights

The Churches

 

 

Antonio Salazar dominated Portugal from 1932 to 1968

The revolution of May 1926 finally put an end to the Republic.  Once again a Flaviense played an important part in the affairs of the country.  The leader of the new government was General Antonio Fragoso Carmona, born in and with ties to Chaves.  First president of the ministry, by decree he was soon nominated president of the Second Republic, then dictator of the country.  He was to remain president until his death in April 1951.   But real power in the country soon came to be held by Antonio de Oliveira Salazar, who nominated Minister of Finance, gradually increased his power until he became prime minister in 1932.  

During this period Chaves played no major role in the events of the nation.  With a long period of stability, albeit under a dictatorship, there were no battles in the region.  As for the possibility of incursions by pro-Royalist or conservative forces, they were now in power.  As for the democratic forces, they were in exile or in hiding and could hardly have found refuge in Franco Spain for any type of attack even if they had ever been so organized to do so.  Chaves was now a spectator in the events of the country, and spent these years in relative obscurity.   

The Pide, Salazar’s political police, made sure that no opposition would form to contest the policies of the New State that stressed the three F’s—Fado, Football, and Fátima.  Most of the population here, being of rural origin and illiterate, probably supported the authoritarian regime.  Tras-os-Montes and the Minho have always been conservative in religion and politics.  An area of mini-fundio, sympathy for Communism and any idea of land distribution never caught on here.   

The only event that showed that all was not so peaceful in the region was an isolated incident that took place in the village of Cambedo, north of the main town and on the Spanish border.  There in 1946 could be heard echoes of the Spanish Civil War, long over in 1939.  Saint Gonçalo of Amarante, patron of these simple people, protected them  well when the village was the scene of a serious gunfight between Portuguese forces and a nucleus of refugees from the Civil War, who had been hidden here.    

The history still has to be written.  What is known is that there was a handful of men commanded by Juan Salgado Ribeiro who attacked the Braga-Chaves bus in October 1946.  The passengers were robbed of their money and jewels.  Once the alert was out forces of the GNR—National Republican Guard, the PIDE—the secret police, and the Guarda Fiscal—customs and tax police, began to look for the guerrillas in all the border villages until they discovered them in Cambedo, in the houses of those who had taken them in and supported them.  On 20 December 1946 the Portuguese forces surrounded the village, and when daybreak came, it was subjected to an intense fire fight, which besides damaging some house, still visible today, annihilated the group of Spanish who had sought refuge here.  There is a plaque in Cambedo mentioning the event but the details and motives have been lost in history and clouded in legend.  

The border region north of Chaves had a tradition of helping refugees from the Spanish Civil War.  The village of Tourém, which in the 1930’s had only forty inhabitants, was one example of a border village that sheltered refugees from Franco’s repression.  There, professor and justice of the peace Manuel Gonçalves Barros (1889-1957) hid Galego refugees in his barn and brought them newspapers so that they could be informed about the situation in their country.  Many of these men and women finally emigrated to Latin America. In 1940 the PIDE found out about Professor Barros and took him to Porto where he spent two months behind bars.  Like this man there were others who the history books have forgotten.

During this period Chaves continued as a small backward town, with poor road communications, and poor health and educational facilities.  With no opportunities for educational or economic improvement many Flavienses chose to emigrate, to the Colonies, Brazil, and later to France.  If Portugal was cut off from the rest of Europe by the policies of a reactionary regime, then Chaves, on the edge of Portugal, was even more cut off.  To the north lay Galicia, one of the poorest areas of Fascist Spain, with no major cities close enough to influence Chaves.  To the west and east there were only mountains and bad roads passing through some of the poorest, most isolated areas in all of Europe.  The only contact with new ideas that could possibly improve the backwardness of the area lay to the south, and Oporto.  But there was still an almost impenetrable barrier to cross called the Marão.  Chaves was literally cut off.  

The railroad came to Chaves in August 1921—ending the period of the “Mala Posta”, a transport by truck, which followed the “estrada real” to connect to neighboring lands.


The Caldas (Hot Water Spa) was built in 1940, but was, and still hasn’t been, developed to any extent.  Until recently it wasn’t even open for about six months of the year.  There is still a mentality of the spa being a water treatment of illness; this attracts the old and infirm, but also the less monetarily endowed. The hundreds of people coming to take the treatment in the summer have spurred the construction of small pensions and inexpensive restaurants, but the town itself has benefited little from this hot water complex.  People with money have never made Chaves their destination for taking the waters.  

Improvements in the town have been the construction of a new hospital in the eighties, a new technical school in the sixties, and still another secondary school, named after Antonio Granjo, in the eighties.  On the other hand, at the end of the eighties, the railroad was finally closed after many years of bad service and economic loss.

Other improvements in modern Chaves have been the construction of two health centers, a remodeling of the Caldas, and the construction of two more bridges crossing the Tâmega, one of them only a few years ago.  

Chaves after the Revolution of 1974

Chaves and its world treasure--the Roman Bridge

With the Revolution of the Carnations of April 25 1974, one of the only bloodless revolutions in European history, Chaves saw the arrival of thousands of “retornados”, returnees from the African colonies that were now independent countries and with very unstable conditions for European immigrants.  Some of these people managed to make vast fortunes in Africa, especially Angola, and brought some of it with them, but the majority came with “one hand in front and another behind”, with only the clothes on their back.  Many Flavienses had gone to Africa and now they were back.  New housing was built for them, and a neighborhood in Chaves is still called the “bairro dos retornados.”  There is also a famous restaurant called “O Retornado.”  Many of these people were strong Salazar supporters and still bear a grudge against the Socialist government led by Mario Soares that supposedly “gave Africa away to the blacks.”  

Politically Chaves has been divided between Socialists (PS) and Social Democrats (PSD).  Communists (PCP) and Christian Democrats (CDU-PP) have had little recent expression.  The leftist Bloco de Esquerda has gained recent support, especially among the young, and more educated. 

The Socialists dominated the government in the late Nineties  but the recent government is PSD.  One feels that people vote more for the person and less for the party.  There is a lot of political clientism as the City Hall provides a lot of jobs.  Many of these go to the party faithful, the famous "Jobs for the Boys" politics, so common in small town politics. 

In the last five years (2003-2008) Chaves has seen several important changes in its infrastructure, and for the most part life has improved greatly.  

  • The Programa Polis (funds from the European Union) has provided a requalification of the riverside area near the spa with a new playground  being built.  
  • The last vestige of the medieval wall that had collapsed in the great rains of previous years was finally rebuilt and looks like it is here to stay.  
  • The areas around  Forte São Francisco and Forte São Neutel have been made into parkland with sidewalks for strolling. 
  • The south entrance to the city (coming from Vila Real) has been transformed into an avenue with parking on both sides
  • A new nucleus of large retail shops (Izi, Sport Zone, and Moviflor) called City Park was built in 2007 near the Modelo supermarket attracting many shoppers especially on the weekends.
  • An extension to Health Center Number 1 was built in 2007
  • An outdoor swimming pool complex was built 5 kilometers south of the city near the village of Vila Seca, and next to the new camping club.
  • The city park, or Public Garden, has been undergoing major alterations and was supposed to be ready in May 2007, but on January 2008 it looks like it is in worse shape than when work was started.
  • With the completion of the new four-lane motorway from the Spanish border to Viseu Chaves now has modern connections with Vila Real and Porto.  Vila Real is now 40 minutes away (1 hour before) and Porto is 90 minutes (120 minutes before).  The accesses to Chaves are still distant and in a rather precarious state but at least the highway has finally arrived.  
  • A new industrial and distribution center was finished in 2007.  This is located between the villages of Outeiro Seco and Vilela Seca, on the north side of the city
  • The biggest project yet for Chaves opened on 19 January 2008.   It is a casino-hotel-health club complex built by the Solverde group.  The casino consists of 
  • Concert room/Restaurant with the capacity for 600 people
    Bar of Concert room/Restaurant with the capacity for 70 people
    Traditional Games Room with Restaurant/Bar for 80 people
    Machines Room with Bar
    Bar in the Casino Hall with the capacity for 70 people
  • The hotel, which is to open at the end of March 2008 will consist of:  72 guest rooms and 6 suites
    Restaurant for 200 people
    Coffee shop for 200 people
    Bar for a 100 people
    Shops
    6 meeting rooms
  • The health club will have: 
    1 indoor swimming pool
    1 outdoor swimming pool
    Football field
    Squash court
    Fitness circuit
    Driving range
    Putting green 
Plans for the future in Chaves are:
  • a new covered swimming pool
  • a multipurpose sports center including a running track and a gymnasium.
  • a pedestrian bridge spanning the Tâmega just south of the Roman bridge, and connecting with the Public Garden, which in January 2008 was still closed for rennovation.  Work should begin on this project soon since the company has already been selected.
  • a private hospital belonging to a group from Guimarães, which will have 24 hour emergency service and obstetrics, a service which has been discontinued at the Chaves Hospital.