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The
Roman Bridge
Chaves
is unique in Portugal in that it still has a Roman bridge in relatively
good shape crossing the river and uniting the two most important
parishes in the town. The
bridge is 140 meters long, high and has 12 visible arches.
Although the bridge spanning the Minho in Ourense
is longer and higher, this example of Roman architecture is even today a
masterpiece of construction.
Two
of the columns
of the original bridge, built by the Emperor Trajan, still stand.
They are stout cylindrical columns with details of the honors
bestowed by the emperor on local governors or generals clearly legible
on them. They were also
milestones indicating distances to the important settlements of Astorga
in Spanish León and Bracara Augusta, Braga, in Portugal.
The
bridge was built between the end of the first century and the beginning
of the second century CE. We
don’t know the exact dates of the beginning or conclusion of
construction. We know that
slaves captured from the peoples inhabiting the region worked on the
bridge. This appears to be
written on one of the columns placed in the middle of the bridge.
These columns were not here originally.
One of them mentions the construction of the bridge, referring to
the reign of the emperor Trajan; the other was taken from the Roman road
leading up to the bridge. Before
the building of the bridge the crossing was made by a road raised above
the bed of the river, which only allowed the river to be crossed in
summer.
Allowing
the river to be crossed at any time of the year, the bridge was an
important factor of development for the town, but it was also necessary
and useful for the pax romana:
here there were hot springs visited by a lot of people; in the
region there were mines with precious metals, whose product was taken to
Rome; across the bridge passed the important Roman road of Braga to
Astorga, with a lot of traffic; and lastly here was quartered a numerous
detachment of legionnaires of the Roman army.
The
bridge has suffered many modifications, for restoration and conservation.
The fortified tower that was built at the entrance was long ago
demolished and the stone sides were substituted by forged iron.
The span was widened and sidewalks put in.
The floor, originally covered by large granite blocks, now is
covered by paving stones.
Perhaps
the most important monument of Chaves, this Roman bridge is an excellent
way to attract tourists to the town.
Unfortunately, the town has not paid proper respect to its most
important treasure. To this
date there is no sign or plaque giving the tourist information about
this incredible bridge. Heavy
traffic rumbled across the span for years without anyone taking the
initiative to change. Finally
a courageous mayor got EC funding and a new bridge was built up river.
But old habits are hard to change, and shopkeepers in the
neighborhood of Madalena fought tooth and nail to keep the bridge open
to cars. A compromise was
reached and now traffic is one-way, although no one has thought of speed
bumps to slow it down. At
least the heavy trucks are banned from crossing.
Pedestrians, who before had to cross at their own peril, can now
feel a little safer.
A
stop at the midway point to contemplate the view is highly recommendable.
The scene of the river with ducks splashing in enjoyment is surprisingly
bucolic, considering you are in the center of a bustling town.
A park has been built along the north right bank, where the
camping site used to be, and a small dam has been built south of the
bridge to regulate the water. Now,
even in the drought of August, there is a substantial flow of water in
the river. A sewage
treatment plant has finally diverted the town’s sewage from the river
and fish have returned. Unfortunately,
in the summer months, while before the river might slow to a trickle and
gypsies would park their wagons under the bridge to wash their clothes,
now the water level remains high but the flow of water slows
considerably and the water takes on a greenish unhealthy color that is
not conducive to tourism.
For more views
of the bridge see Photo 01, Photo 02, and
Photo
03.
On the south
side of the bridge there is a well-kept municipal garden with a
bandstand, where the town holds an annual fair of handicrafts and
periodically has fairs or musical presentations. There is a small
playground and a bandstand in the middle, which is rarely used.
The park is an excellent place for jogging in the summer as there is a
lot of shade, but in the winter the rains tend to make the dirt paths
muddy. There is a project to connect this park to the other side
of the river by building a foot bridge, but so far it is on the drawing
table only. The land for
the garden was donated by one of Chaves’ richest native sons, Cândido
Pinto Souto Maior, whose house still stands on the corner across from
the park. Souto Maior was a
banker who became very rich in Brazil and once owned most of the
surrounding land in Madalena. His
bust can be seen in the square in the park.
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