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For maps of Galicia see Galinor.es
For
a map of Ourense Province see Galinor.es.
Verín
—382
meters elevation, 5,780 population
Verín
is the closest thing to a sister city for Chaves.
It is located 22 km north of Chaves, in the province of Ourense,
which is part of the Autonomous Community of Galicia.
Verín is in many ways a mirror of Chaves, the town that flavienses
like to compare to things in Chaves.
Although it is a poor town, devoid of industry like Chaves, it
offers flavienses a chance to
see something a little different on the weekend.
People are out in the streets more, the discos seem to never
close, there is an open-air swimming pool for the hot days of summer,
and the octopus cut in tiny cubes mixed with olive oil and paprika is a
delicious escape from Portuguese food.
Carnival here is one of the most original in Spain with masked
figures running through the streets brandishing whips and making an
interesting sound caused by cowbells tied to their waists.
Everything has a medieval air, with little influence from the
Brazilian-style carnival, which has become popular all over Europe.

Verín
has one major tourist sight, which is Monterrey Castle, a huge complex
looming over the rather non-descript urban area. To reach the
castle you drive about two kilometers in the direction of Ourense on the
old highway, turning off on the right to climb two kilometers, passing a
winery on the left. There is a parador next to the castle.
Monterrey
Castle played an important role throughout the Portuguese-Spanish wars,
having been strategically built on the frontier for the purpose.
It was more than a castle since included within the perimeter were a
monastery, a hospital and a small town which was abandoned in the
19C. The castle
itself is more impressive from afar than at closer look, but the view
from the heights is worth the drive up.
At night it is lit up and you can see it for miles, even from the
hills of Chaves on clear nights.
For
more views of the castle see dlynnwaldron.com/monterreycastle
For
a large view of the Parador from the castle see verinparadore%20view.
Unfortunately,
with the exception of Monterrey Castle, there is very little to see in
Verín and the town accomplishes something that is hard to find in Spain:
it is an ugly town. Even
the main church has been blocked off by buildings and is hard to find, a
rarity in Catholic Spain. Recently
the plaza in front of the city hall has been remodeled, after great
protest because of the destruction of the trees, and is attractively
laid out. There is an
underground car park under the fountains.
The
main problem with Verín is that many of the blocks of flats are
partially finished and look abandoned; also there are no trees on the
streets. Compared to Chaves it is a drab, gray town.
Other
than shopping or eating in a typical restaurant, especially the pulperia
or typical eatery for appreciating Galicia's famous octopus, the tourist would spend
little time here.
It
is curious to see the relationship the flavienses
have with the Galegos—the
Galicians. Of all the
people in Spain they are perhaps those who most sympathize with their
poor cousins. Perhaps it is
the language proximity—Galician with Portuguese—or the feeling that
Madrid has always ignored Galicia; therefore they can always say they
might join with the north of Portugal, which also feels discriminated by
the central government in Lisbon. The
Portuguese say that only in Galicia are they understood when they speak.
Curiously, with cultures that are not that dissimilar, and
languages that are very similar, there is almost no contact between the
two peoples outside shopping trips or eating in restaurants.
Portuguese newspapers are not sold in Verín nor are Spanish
papers sold in Chaves. Informants
say they never listen to Spanish radio—perhaps because there are few
music stations. Spanish
television is very popular though.
Several Spanish singers are popular in Chaves, but usually those
who have also become popular outside Spain.
No Portuguese singers are popular or even listened to in Verìn.
Now
with the open borders there is more commercial contact, but before the
revolution of 1974 people needed permission to cross to the other side.
Older people talk of crossing streams at night—underage
teenagers couldn’t cross until the 1990s without their parents’
permission-- just to go to a bar or disco in Verín.
Today the border is completely open.
The customs buildings are abandoned and the signs for customs
brokers have long since fallen down.
See
Xinzo da Límia for information about another interesting carnaval
Links
to Verín:
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