Verín, Galicia:  Chaves' neighbor to the north

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  For maps of Galicia see Galinor.es

For a map of Ourense Province see Galinor.es  

Verín 382 meters elevation, 5,780 population  

Verín is the closest thing to a sister city for Chaves.  It is located 22 km north of Chaves, in the province of Ourense, which is part of the Autonomous Community of Galicia.  Verín is in many ways a mirror of Chaves, the town that flavienses like to compare to things in Chaves.  Although it is a poor town, devoid of industry like Chaves, it offers flavienses a chance to see something a little different on the weekend.  People are out in the streets more, the discos seem to never close, there is an open-air swimming pool for the hot days of summer, and the octopus cut in tiny cubes mixed with olive oil and paprika is a delicious escape from Portuguese food. 

Carnival here is one of the most original in Spain with masked figures running through the streets brandishing whips and making an interesting sound caused by cowbells tied to their waists.  Everything has a medieval air, with little influence from the Brazilian-style carnival, which has become popular all over Europe. 

   

Verín has one major tourist sight, which is Monterrey Castle, a huge complex looming over the rather non-descript urban area.  To reach the castle you drive about two kilometers in the direction of Ourense on the old highway, turning off on the right to climb two kilometers, passing a winery on the left.  There is a parador next to the castle.  

 Monterrey Castle played an important role throughout the Portuguese-Spanish wars, having been strategically built on the frontier for the purpose.  It was more than a castle since included within the perimeter were a monastery, a hospital and a small town which was abandoned in the 19C.  The castle itself is more impressive from afar than at closer look, but the view from the heights is worth the drive up.  At night it is lit up and you can see it for miles, even from the hills of Chaves on clear nights.   

For more views of the castle see dlynnwaldron.com/monterreycastle

For a large view of the Parador from the castle see verinparadore%20view.

Unfortunately, with the exception of Monterrey Castle, there is very little to see in Verín and the town accomplishes something that is hard to find in Spain:  it is an ugly town.  Even the main church has been blocked off by buildings and is hard to find, a rarity in Catholic Spain.  Recently the plaza in front of the city hall has been remodeled, after great protest because of the destruction of the trees, and is attractively laid out.  There is an underground car park under the fountains.   

The main problem with Verín is that many of the blocks of flats are partially finished and look abandoned; also there are no trees on the streets. Compared to Chaves it is a drab, gray town.  

Other than shopping or eating in a typical restaurant, especially the pulperia or typical eatery for appreciating Galicia's famous octopus, the tourist would spend little time here.    

It is curious to see the relationship the flavienses have with the Galegos—the Galicians.  Of all the people in Spain they are perhaps those who most sympathize with their poor cousins.  Perhaps it is the language proximity—Galician with Portuguese—or the feeling that Madrid has always ignored Galicia; therefore they can always say they might join with the north of Portugal, which also feels discriminated by the central government in Lisbon.  The Portuguese say that only in Galicia are they understood when they speak.  Curiously, with cultures that are not that dissimilar, and languages that are very similar, there is almost no contact between the two peoples outside shopping trips or eating in restaurants.  Portuguese newspapers are not sold in Verín nor are Spanish papers sold in Chaves.  Informants say they never listen to Spanish radio—perhaps because there are few music stations.  Spanish television is very popular though.   Several Spanish singers are popular in Chaves, but usually those who have also become popular outside Spain.  No Portuguese singers are popular or even listened to in Verìn.     

Now with the open borders there is more commercial contact, but before the revolution of 1974 people needed permission to cross to the other side.  Older people talk of crossing streams at night—underage teenagers couldn’t cross until the 1990s without their parents’ permission-- just to go to a bar or disco in Verín.  Today the border is completely open.  The customs buildings are abandoned and the signs for customs brokers have long since fallen down.   

See Xinzo da Límia for information about another interesting carnaval

Links to Verín:  


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